Day 9 - Pal Rakinawa

Staying up all night in a paddy field has always been a dream of mine, not that I had any idea what it entailed. It was more of a dream of what life would be like outside the city, in the village, as a farmer. Paddy fields are found in most parts of Sri Lanka, but Horowpothana has a history of ancient paddy lands surrounded by forests. It is common for paddy farmers to build small huts on trees and even on higher ground to be able to stay overnight to watch their paddy lands and keep away wild animals. It is a common sight when you enter the rural areas of Sri Lanka. It is called 'Pal rakinawa,' and today, for the first time, I was able to experience exactly what that entailed.

It is a surreal experience to spend the entire night out in a small, feeble hut, exposed to the natural elements to ward off any wild animals. The biggest threat that farmers fear is the elephant. They have a complex relationship with this species of megafauna.

I remember feeling at peace as I sat next to our small fire, my host flashing the torch to indicate human activity. As I settled into the cosy hut, the sounds of the forest enveloped me, creating a symphony of rustling leaves and distant animal calls.

The sounds of the night have never been so loud, and the night sky has never been so bright. You could hear elephant trumpets in the distance, crickets chirping all night, and the wind rustling through the branches of old trees guarding the paddy field. And if you listen intently, you can hear the water flowing through the nearby creek. My host is an experienced farmer, but she was scared of being out there in the night, and we took solace in the fact that we had each other. The fire was lit with coconut husks and wood; the coconut husks tend to burn for longer, and the fire deterred any wildlife that would be lurking around.

It is a night I will never forget.